Daytona middle outer rotor installation Monkey AB27
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The vibration caused by the increase in rotation may be due to the outer rotor.
Outer rotor of GPX engine
I weighed the rotor and it was 902g. *Daytona's is 714g
The lightweight outer rotor sold by Modern Works is 516g
so it's quite heavy. *Modern Works recommends lightweight outer rotors
However, at the same time, the generating part becomes smaller and the amount of power generated decreases.
Also, the effect of the flywheel is weakened, so it seems to affect running at a constant speed.
The wiring of the neutral lamp is different, so I will replace it.
To remove the rotor base, I tapped the pickup coil part with a rubber hammer. Be careful not to tap it up and down as the base will come off and engine oil will leak. When installing the Daytona rotor base,
don't forget to attach the included outer O-ring and crank oil seal to the crankshaft. ※I forgot to put on the crank oil seal ("^ω^)...
If you look closely, you'll see that the number and size of coils are the same.
You can also install the Daytona outer rotor as is. (;゚д゚) gulp...
But I just installed the Daytona middle outer rotor set.
I installed the wiring that came with the GPX engine. ※Solder + shrink tube
I confirmed that the neutral light was on. ( `ー´)ノ
I refilled the leaked engine oil. ( `ー´)ノ
I installed the CDI that came with the Daytona middle outer rotor.
The installation location is on the upper side of the frame under the seat.
The included 250mm cable tie was not enough, so I fixed it with a 300mm cable tie.
This CDI has four types of automatic advance maps and is a dedicated product for the middle outer rotor.
There are four wires coming out of the CDI
① Do not connect the wires Advance 20 degrees 3000rpm - 30 degrees 7000rpm
② Connect the green and red wires, leave the remaining two unconnected
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 35 degrees 6000rpm
③ Connect the green wire to the black and red wires
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 37.5 6500rpm
④ Connect the green and black wires, leave the remaining two unconnected
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 40 degrees 7000rpm
If you try starting the engine without connecting it, it will not work.
It will take a breath when you open the throttle. *Idling is fine.
Set it to ② and check the throttle action, there is no problem.
And then a problem occurred.
The electric tachometer is not responding... it no longer displays anything.
Other companies' tachometers cannot be used because the waveform of the ignition signal is different from the genuine one.
In that case Please be aware of this.
Whoa...
It might work if I plug in some electrical resistance wiring...
I couldn't install the Takegawa meter because the receiver was a Honda terminal...
When something like this happens, I think a mechanical tachometer might be a good idea.
It's possible to install it on engines under 81cc because there won't be enough torque, but I don't recommend it.
It was expensive, so it's a shame that I won't be able to use the tachometer.
It's packed with a variety of functions, including tachometer, speed, trip, and odometer.
It also fits perfectly into the Monkey's headlight case, making it very sleek.
It's smaller than a regular connector.
Outer rotor of GPX engine
I weighed the rotor and it was 902g. *Daytona's is 714g
The lightweight outer rotor sold by Modern Works is 516g
so it's quite heavy. *Modern Works recommends lightweight outer rotors
However, at the same time, the generating part becomes smaller and the amount of power generated decreases.
Also, the effect of the flywheel is weakened, so it seems to affect running at a constant speed.
The wiring of the neutral lamp is different, so I will replace it.
To remove the rotor base, I tapped the pickup coil part with a rubber hammer. Be careful not to tap it up and down as the base will come off and engine oil will leak. When installing the Daytona rotor base,
don't forget to attach the included outer O-ring and crank oil seal to the crankshaft. ※I forgot to put on the crank oil seal ("^ω^)...
If you look closely, you'll see that the number and size of coils are the same.
You can also install the Daytona outer rotor as is. (;゚д゚) gulp...
But I just installed the Daytona middle outer rotor set.
I installed the wiring that came with the GPX engine. ※Solder + shrink tube
I confirmed that the neutral light was on. ( `ー´)ノ
I refilled the leaked engine oil. ( `ー´)ノ
I installed the CDI that came with the Daytona middle outer rotor.
The installation location is on the upper side of the frame under the seat.
The included 250mm cable tie was not enough, so I fixed it with a 300mm cable tie.
This CDI has four types of automatic advance maps and is a dedicated product for the middle outer rotor.
There are four wires coming out of the CDI
① Do not connect the wires Advance 20 degrees 3000rpm - 30 degrees 7000rpm
② Connect the green and red wires, leave the remaining two unconnected
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 35 degrees 6000rpm
③ Connect the green wire to the black and red wires
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 37.5 6500rpm
④ Connect the green and black wires, leave the remaining two unconnected
Advance angle 20 degrees 3000rpm - 40 degrees 7000rpm
If you try starting the engine without connecting it, it will not work.
It will take a breath when you open the throttle. *Idling is fine.
Set it to ② and check the throttle action, there is no problem.
And then a problem occurred.
The electric tachometer is not responding... it no longer displays anything.
Other companies' tachometers cannot be used because the waveform of the ignition signal is different from the genuine one.
In that case Please be aware of this.
Whoa...
It might work if I plug in some electrical resistance wiring...
I couldn't install the Takegawa meter because the receiver was a Honda terminal...
When something like this happens, I think a mechanical tachometer might be a good idea.
It's possible to install it on engines under 81cc because there won't be enough torque, but I don't recommend it.
It was expensive, so it's a shame that I won't be able to use the tachometer.
It's packed with a variety of functions, including tachometer, speed, trip, and odometer.
It also fits perfectly into the Monkey's headlight case, making it very sleek.
It's smaller than a regular connector.
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